In the Maya World Tree, the Ceiba, Palenque
I spent two months living in Flores, Guatemala, getting to know people in Uaxactún and San Jose and learning more about the ancient Maya sites. Three weeks ago, I left Flores in a minivan and then took a boat across the river that divindes Guatemala from Mexico. A taxi and another minivan later, I landed in Palenque, Mexico, home to another famous Maya site.
I have been visiting the archeological sties of the pre-Christian people of Mexico for many years, from Chichen-Itza on the Yucatan Peninsula to Teotihucan near Mexico City. Until I came to Guatemala, Monte Alban, near the city of Oaxaca, was my favorite site. It's temples and pyramids mirror the rise and fall of the surrounding mountains, conveying such respect for the natural world and such harmony with it that I was moved anew every time I visited. I did not know that the ancient sites of the Maya in Guatemala would be equally powerful to me. In Petén and in Palenque, the spectacular jungle setting of the ruins emphasizes the mystic qualities of the Maya structures.
I have been visiting the archeological sties of the pre-Christian people of Mexico for many years, from Chichen-Itza on the Yucatan Peninsula to Teotihucan near Mexico City. Until I came to Guatemala, Monte Alban, near the city of Oaxaca, was my favorite site. It's temples and pyramids mirror the rise and fall of the surrounding mountains, conveying such respect for the natural world and such harmony with it that I was moved anew every time I visited. I did not know that the ancient sites of the Maya in Guatemala would be equally powerful to me. In Petén and in Palenque, the spectacular jungle setting of the ruins emphasizes the mystic qualities of the Maya structures.
Palenque
The irony is that by all accounts the jungle was not there when the Mayas inhabited these sites, from between 800 BC (Uaxactun) to 900 AD. Thousands of people lived in these places and the surrounding area was devoted to farming. In deed one theory of the mass evacuation of the Maya sites around 900 AD was deforestation and overpopulation. It is interesting that following generations of Maya peoples have never chosen to repopulate these sites, even when the remaining structures would have provided excellent shelter.
Each of the Maya sites are unique in their design, though all are precisely aligned to the cardinal directions. In their time, they were living centers of religion, culture, commerce and color, the massive temples and offices in red, yellow, blue and black, the glyphs and etchings precise and bold. The Maya world was not a united kingdom, but rather had competing centers of power and participated in commerce and exchange with the Aztecs and Nauhtl in northern Mexico and throughout Central America.
Each of the Maya sites are unique in their design, though all are precisely aligned to the cardinal directions. In their time, they were living centers of religion, culture, commerce and color, the massive temples and offices in red, yellow, blue and black, the glyphs and etchings precise and bold. The Maya world was not a united kingdom, but rather had competing centers of power and participated in commerce and exchange with the Aztecs and Nauhtl in northern Mexico and throughout Central America.
Temple of Inscriptions, Palenque
Palenque, in Chiapas, Mexico, is a medium sized site, much smaller than Tikal and both easy and pleasant to explore. While Tikal is magnificent and Uaxactun, mystic, Palenque is elegant. Unlike other important Maya cities, Palenque was most influenced by one ruler, Pakal, who became the leader when he was 12 and reigned until he died at 80. He was succeeded by his son and then a grandson. Unlike other Maya buildings, these display a delicacy, in the lattice roof combs and the the detailed etchings. Pakal was clearly devoted to the arts and in fact Palenque was not as preoccupied with war as other classic Maya cities, like Tikal. I have often wondered if a preoccupation with war stifles creative expression. and certainly there seems to be some evidence for this among the Maya cities, with the greatest creative advances coming earlier in their history, primarily in the pre-classic period.
Between the ruins and the fine museum is an unexpected natural delight as the trail winds through the jungle to a captivating waterfall which a giant ceiba, the world tree of the Maya. The museum at Palenque houses some lovely ceramic and jade pieces as well as some finely made statues, many of which were finds surrounding Pakal's tomb. While the tomb, still buried in the temple of the inscriptions, is not open to the public, a stunning replica is displayed in a special section of the museum. I felt deeply satisfied with my visit as I left Palenque to board a bus for San Cristóbal de las Casas.
Between the ruins and the fine museum is an unexpected natural delight as the trail winds through the jungle to a captivating waterfall which a giant ceiba, the world tree of the Maya. The museum at Palenque houses some lovely ceramic and jade pieces as well as some finely made statues, many of which were finds surrounding Pakal's tomb. While the tomb, still buried in the temple of the inscriptions, is not open to the public, a stunning replica is displayed in a special section of the museum. I felt deeply satisfied with my visit as I left Palenque to board a bus for San Cristóbal de las Casas.
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