My love affair with San Cristóbal began almost immediately. Maybe it's because I always thought the perfect place for me as a writer would have been in Mexico City in the 30's or in ex patriot Paris. So San Cristóbal de las Casas immediately spoke to me, with it's walking streets, extensive markets, marimba bands, passionate latino singers and a vibrantly colored city more exhuberant than Flores and Antigua. Once the capital of Chiapas, San Cristóbal is considered the cultural center of Chiapas with a mix of indigenous Tlotzil Maya, ladinos and people from around the world. Set high in the mountains, San Cristóbal, named after Saint Christopher, is one of the coldest places in Mexico.
People who know me will readily tell you that I am not a fan of the cold. But I had come prepared, lugging a bulky sweater, a jacket, a fleece vest, wool socks, a scarf and my hot water bottle. I needed them, I hadn't been this cold for nine years, since I'd moved from Vashon to Hawaii and then onto Guatemala. And yet the cold light seemed to make the buildings glow in the late afternoon.
Revolution Cafe
Chiapas has long been the poorest state of Mexico with also the highest percentage of indigenous population, the Maya. Like many poor places on the planet, Chiapas is richly endowed with lumber, minerals and oil. The uprising of the Zapatista movement in 1994, on the same day that the NAFTA free trade agreement was signed, was a part of a growing resistence to government/corporate collaboration which result in the wanton destruction of the area's natural resources and Maya cultural heritage. Zapatista philosophy eschews both capitalism and communism, and promotes social equality and indigenous rights. San Cristóbal is a stimulating place to be because an awareness of global issues and the right to identity is apart of the heart of the city.
San Cristóbal has both an extensive food market and a daily labrynth of elaborate embroidery, excellent wool sweaters, hats & gloves and raw wool and amber jewelry. Chiapas is known for the third highest quality of amber in the world.
As for me, I don't think I will ever tire of walking around San Cristóbal. Every street offers a new bouquet of colors, the sound of music, a surprising church, a new panaderia, featuring among other things, chocolate ratones. A delicious chocolate confection in the shape of a rat. Yum.
As for me, I don't think I will ever tire of walking around San Cristóbal. Every street offers a new bouquet of colors, the sound of music, a surprising church, a new panaderia, featuring among other things, chocolate ratones. A delicious chocolate confection in the shape of a rat. Yum.
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